A little premature, perhaps, seeing as Diwali is on Tuesday. But tomorrow (Monday) is Chhoti Diwali, and Thursday is Bhai Dooj… these North Indians really go to town with their satellitic holidays. Thankfully, the tekas* are closed only on Tuesday. In all other respects, life is taking almost a week off– a really long weekend, from Saturday to Thursday. Four of my professors this semester have cancelled all their classes for next week, knowing that student attendance will be so low as to make taking a class worthless. The other fellow has developed an infuriating habit of taking only half a class, coming in at 11:00 for a 10:30 - 11:30 lecture. As a result, he’s nicely behind in the syllabus, as I knew he would be, and has to teach throughout the festive week.
Growing up in a Christian community in rural South India, these Indian festivals meant only one thing to me– school holidays. (School was in no way desperate to get us to come, in any case– until I was in 9th or 10th, any morning it rained would see us waiting for the telephonically relayed message: rain holiday. Someone on the school board finally saw the ridiculousness of this practice, even if rain was such a rare thing in Vellore that it perhaps did deserve its own holiday!) Holi is in any case a far more North Indian festival than it is Southern. Deepavali meant the Hindu sub-community would come around with sweets; the Christians would return the favour two months later with Christmas cake. We didn’t do any of the things usually associated with Diwali (as explained to foreigners in platforms like Wikipedia and Lonely Planet). We never bought new clothes for Diwali, nor went anywhere for the extended weekends. I don’t like Indian sweets, and since I ate the most in our house by far, there was no need to buy sweets or dried fruit or nuts for ourselves. We did always buy tickets to the Hindu-organised fireworks spectacle at the community hall (the 10,000-wala pataka stream was quite something!)– but it was in the nature of a social event, a chance to dress up and have dinner with your class boys, pre-puberty; and girls-and-older-kids, once we’d gotten past the cheetangoli** phase.
Christmas was the only festival our family celebrated with anything bordering on enthusiasm. My mom likes singing hymns and carols, so she’d make a rare appearance at the chapel, but that was and remains the extent of the religiosity we displayed. (I love Christmas carols myself, but I was too embarrassed to sing in front of my folks, so I’d stand there silently on the occasions I joined them.) Until 2002, Christmas meant a gathering of the extended maternal family at my grandparents’ Madurai Mansion, replete with Christmas tree, gifts from a bevy of aunts and uncles (including, invariably, an envelope of cash from thatha, bless his soul), and the best mutton curry Christmas lunch avva could cook. Which was pretty darn fabulous, I may add. In 2003 my mom was doing a stint in a clinic in London’s Harley Street (her clientele was mostly Arab sheikhs, she told me, and she claims to have seen Trudie Sumner once), and we went to join her for Christmas and New Year. That New Year remains the only time I’ve seen a roomful of WASPs drunk on champagne and warbling along to Auld Lang Syne with the television anchors… but I’m hopeful of being able to replicate that scene within 5 years. I must remember to incorporate it in my first personal Five-Year Plan. Since then I haven’t been back in Madurai for Christmas, and I sorely miss it.
It amuses me mildly, thus, to see the North Indian Diwali fervour. People here associate it greatly with taash*** card parties– something high in Ram’s mind when he was off doing his thing in Lanka, no doubt. The houses are resplendent with glittering lights. The chowkidars have begun clamouring for their handout, and my newspaper guy refused to return 200 bucks he owes me because ”the children know nothing of my difficulties; they just ask for Diwali gifts and I must provide them.” This year, thanks to the Delhi Police strictly enforcing security norms in the wake of the recent terrorism, fireworks are in comparatively short supply, and I’m thankful I can hear Eric Clapton playing over the sound of patakas, for once. The newspapers are full of accounts of woeful merchants lamenting the poor Diwali demand: a combination of Economicrisix and bomb blasts in marketplaces seems to have hurt consumer sentiment. I don’t understand that particular fear: the likelihood of terrorists striking the same market once more is within the realm of calculated risk, at the very least, non?
My Facebook home page is full of happy-holidays status messages. This festival of Light and Magic is probably the preeminent pan-Indian festival, and if you’re lucky enough to be around family or celebratory friends, I’m happy for you.
But me?

Bah fucking humbug.
(Rather an appropriate Act to be studying, though; say what you like about inclusive Indianness, it remains at heart a Hindu festival:)

* Off-licences
** To be cheetangoli was to be untouchable. It spread by contact, unless you had an item coloured green touching you. The standard practice was to stuff a leaf under your watch face, thus making you immune from infection. Not to be confused with leprosy, which was a similar affliction affecting (usually hot) girls. I was once sent to the Vice-Principal for making a girl cry with my accusations of her having leprosy.
*** Gambling